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I can get whatever I want and Billabong picks up the bill. Its Christmas. Its the best thing ever. The best dream ever. Shapers go hot and cold, just like surfers. So when I hear a shaper gets hot, Im just boom, on it. JS has been hot for years now.
It all started in J-Bay. I had just got back from a trip with Kelly, and wed got killer waves and had a lot of fun. I was trying to get motivated to surf the contest, but as it got closer, I started getting less and less excited.
The first round I had Jordy and Jihad in my heat, and I was out there looking in, and, even though France is an event Ive always loved, I was literally miserable. I didnt know what was wrong, but I knew I had to get outta there.
I think Europe breaks people. If youre on a bad one, that place really makes it bad! A lot of people have lost it there. Its crunch time.
I can't get mad at losing if the guy I lost to wins the contest.
So I am not the guy who wants to eat you for breakfast anymore when we are in heats together. That shit will drive you crazy, if you stay in that mode for too long. Take my word for it, or just keep making up your own theories.
If you don't see me on tour, it's because I have found happiness away from winning, and that might be the biggest achievement I could ever accomplish.
Living a happy life is my main priority. You guys may think I am selfish for "wasting my talent" by staying away from events for a bit, but I am finally at a comfortable place where I can honestly say, if you guys see me out on tour again it's because I am there to win, and I'm going to go 100%.
Right now. I am at a point where it doesn't even matter what the waves are like. I just don't want to be there, and I don't want to put a jersey on.
I don't want to be one of those guys who says they don't care, just staying somewhere in the top ten for a few more years. I want to win everything, or I don't even want to be there.
I have my friends, and I surf because it's what I have always loved doing.
I am a professional athlete, which means it's part of the deal for people to watch me and watch what I do in and out of the water, but I am not some bubbly f**king angel who is going to go out and try to be your best friend.
I ride for Billabong Surfboards, which is like a dream come true. I can get boards shaped by anyone I want.
Being A Woman
Leave Me Alone
Mother In Law
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