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Its kind of like a test run in seeing how its going to be like when Im off the tour. Im diggin it. Ive been at home only a little bit. Ive been traveling a lot. It hasnt really been slowed down at all. (On Semi-Retirement)
Malea Manuel is amazing, the girl surfer. She won the U.S. Open in Huntington, but before that, no one had ever heard of her. Ive been watching her forever. She surfs like Parko or Stephanie Gilmore. Shes that good.
I heard Bam Margera is in town, maybe he can go do it. I think they need our help more than anything right now. Billabong and Element are doing really well, but Quiksilver needs help. [Laughs] Maybe we should go over there and buy some t-shirts to help out.
I can get whatever I want and Billabong picks up the bill. Its Christmas. Its the best thing ever. The best dream ever. Shapers go hot and cold, just like surfers. So when I hear a shaper gets hot, Im just boom, on it. JS has been hot for years now.
It all started in J-Bay. I had just got back from a trip with Kelly, and wed got killer waves and had a lot of fun. I was trying to get motivated to surf the contest, but as it got closer, I started getting less and less excited.
The first round I had Jordy and Jihad in my heat, and I was out there looking in, and, even though France is an event Ive always loved, I was literally miserable. I didnt know what was wrong, but I knew I had to get outta there.
I think Europe breaks people. If youre on a bad one, that place really makes it bad! A lot of people have lost it there. Its crunch time.
I can't get mad at losing if the guy I lost to wins the contest.
So I am not the guy who wants to eat you for breakfast anymore when we are in heats together. That shit will drive you crazy, if you stay in that mode for too long. Take my word for it, or just keep making up your own theories.
If you don't see me on tour, it's because I have found happiness away from winning, and that might be the biggest achievement I could ever accomplish.
Living a happy life is my main priority. You guys may think I am selfish for "wasting my talent" by staying away from events for a bit, but I am finally at a comfortable place where I can honestly say, if you guys see me out on tour again it's because I am there to win, and I'm going to go 100%.
Right now. I am at a point where it doesn't even matter what the waves are like. I just don't want to be there, and I don't want to put a jersey on.
I don't want to be one of those guys who says they don't care, just staying somewhere in the top ten for a few more years. I want to win everything, or I don't even want to be there.
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