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Malea Manuel is amazing, the girl surfer. She won the U.S. Open in Huntington, but before that, no one had ever heard of her. Ive been watching her forever. She surfs like Parko or Stephanie Gilmore. Shes that good.
Andy Irons
2 Likes
2 Comments
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I heard Bam Margera is in town, maybe he can go do it. I think they need our help more than anything right now. Billabong and Element are doing really well, but Quiksilver needs help. [Laughs] Maybe we should go over there and buy some t-shirts to help out.
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The first round I had Jordy and Jihad in my heat, and I was out there looking in, and, even though France is an event Ive always loved, I was literally miserable. I didnt know what was wrong, but I knew I had to get outta there.
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I can't get mad at losing if the guy I lost to wins the contest.
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So I am not the guy who wants to eat you for breakfast anymore when we are in heats together. That sh.. will drive you crazy, if you stay in that mode for too long. Take my word for it, or just keep making up your own theories.
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If you don't see me on tour, it's because I have found happiness away from winning, and that might be the biggest achievement I could ever accomplish.
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Living a happy life is my main priority. You guys may think I am selfish for "wasting my talent" by staying away from events for a bit, but I am finally at a comfortable place where I can honestly say, if you guys see me out on tour again it's because I am there to win, and I'm going to go 100%.
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Right now. I am at a point where it doesn't even matter what the waves are like. I just don't want to be there, and I don't want to put a jersey on.
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I don't want to be one of those guys who says they don't care, just staying somewhere in the top ten for a few more years. I want to win everything, or I don't even want to be there.
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I have my friends, and I surf because it's what I have always loved doing.
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