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So I am not the guy who wants to eat you for breakfast anymore when we are in heats together. That sh.. will drive you crazy, if you stay in that mode for too long. Take my word for it, or just keep making up your own theories.
If you don't see me on tour, it's because I have found happiness away from winning, and that might be the biggest achievement I could ever accomplish.
Living a happy life is my main priority. You guys may think I am selfish for "wasting my talent" by staying away from events for a bit, but I am finally at a comfortable place where I can honestly say, if you guys see me out on tour again it's because I am there to win, and I'm going to go 100%.
Right now. I am at a point where it doesn't even matter what the waves are like. I just don't want to be there, and I don't want to put a jersey on.
I don't want to be one of those guys who says they don't care, just staying somewhere in the top ten for a few more years. I want to win everything, or I don't even want to be there.
I have my friends, and I surf because it's what I have always loved doing.
I am a professional athlete, which means it's part of the deal for people to watch me and watch what I do in and out of the water, but I am not some bubbly f**king angel who is going to go out and try to be your best friend.
I ride for Billabong Surfboards, which is like a dream come true. I can get boards shaped by anyone I want.
The momentum has begun and I know I need to capitalize on this win and carry it on into Jeffreys Bay at the next event and hopefully throughout the rest of the year.
Taylor is a good friend of mine, its a great wave and weve had such a good time here this week so this is a perfect ending. I couldnt have written it any better.
I was super stoked to check Fiji and Japan off my list last year, I didn't think I'd ever do well in Japan. But yeah, being able to surf well anywhere is one of the best things I've got going, a lot of that has to do with refining my equipment at each spot.
I try changing my surfing, which is the absolute worst thing you can do. Everyone surfs their own way. If I try to surf like someone else I look like a dork.
Just being in the final is amazing. I make a point of trying to make a few finals a year and to actually get a win is even better.
High School Senior
Never Back Down
Trust In God
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