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Right now. I am at a point where it doesn't even matter what the waves are like. I just don't want to be there, and I don't want to put a jersey on.
I don't want to be one of those guys who says they don't care, just staying somewhere in the top ten for a few more years. I want to win everything, or I don't even want to be there.
I have my friends, and I surf because it's what I have always loved doing.
I am a professional athlete, which means it's part of the deal for people to watch me and watch what I do in and out of the water, but I am not some bubbly f**king angel who is going to go out and try to be your best friend.
I ride for Billabong Surfboards, which is like a dream come true. I can get boards shaped by anyone I want.
The momentum has begun and I know I need to capitalize on this win and carry it on into Jeffreys Bay at the next event and hopefully throughout the rest of the year.
Taylor is a good friend of mine, its a great wave and weve had such a good time here this week so this is a perfect ending. I couldnt have written it any better.
I was super stoked to check Fiji and Japan off my list last year, I didn't think I'd ever do well in Japan. But yeah, being able to surf well anywhere is one of the best things I've got going, a lot of that has to do with refining my equipment at each spot.
I try changing my surfing, which is the absolute worst thing you can do. Everyone surfs their own way. If I try to surf like someone else I look like a dork.
Just being in the final is amazing. I make a point of trying to make a few finals a year and to actually get a win is even better.
That's the best part of the whole thing. The level on tour these days is awesome. That's what makes it so fun.
I'm just so stoked and Kelly is going to have to wait to pop the champagne cork for a little longer.
I can't believe I've won here again. I want to move here. I love the people, I love the food, and I love the waves.
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